Strategically perched on landmark limestone cliffs located on the southernmost tip of the Bukit Peninsula sits the Hilton’s majestic luxury resort LXR Umana. “Uma” is the Balinese word for rice paddy and thus the poetic sounding name “Umana” is a refreshed take and modern play on the age old word. The upgraded term Umana represents terraced fields of rice paddies, and their intrinsic connection to the people, land, and life. This elegant name was selected not only for branding purposes, but also as an empathetic reflection that the 72 luxurious and palatial villas of the Umana are situated in a symbolic and technical terrace style formation that dramatically cascades from the epic open-air arrival lounges down towards the ever popular Melasti Beach of Ungasan.

This architectural and structural splendour of the terraces creates a sense of privacy and intimacy that are equally matched with unblocked views of the ocean from almost every vantage point. The resort’s clifftop typography is among its unique virtues, but also the main logistical considerations surrounding accessibility for the elderly. Families travelling with infants and seniors should expect and anticipate the steep elevations. Those with concerns regarding mobility should definitely consult the staff beforehand and perhaps request for more central accommodation placements as well as to make use of the resort’s complimentary buggy service as much as possible.

The villas of Umana are vast and spacious in a physically tangible manner that surprises even seasoned vacationers. The scale of their homely villas would be considered large by most international resort standards, and in fact the Umana proudly boasts Bali’s second largest villa sizes.

The moment that we stepped into our enormous 4,337 sqft one bedroom villa, we remarked how it felt more akin to staying at a large private residence as opposed to a regular hotel villa.

Complete with a lengthy 10-metre private infinity pool as well as a personal Jacuzzi, the rest of the expansive surrounds of the ocean-facing villa comprises of fixtures and amenities with the likes of an outdoor gazebo, marbled vanities, tropical foliage, outdoor and indoor rain showers as well as separate living and dining rooms. The villas’ lush courtyards and day beds double up as personal sanctuaries that are conducive for breathwork therapy, contemplative meditation, and some introspective journalling.

Spanning a whopping 10 hectares, we felt a little overwhelmed and slightly intimidated by the sheer size of the property upon arrival. The accommodating marketing staff were kind enough to give us a guided tour of the highlights and their personal favourite spots at the resort.

The Umana’s marketing team comprises of two good looking mocha complexioned lads that at first glance seemed like an odd combination together as they could not be more different from each other. One is a quiet and matured old soul, while the other is a chatty “bright eyed, bushy tailed” progressive Gen-Z. The contrast between them seems stark, but yet a synergy and camaraderie exists between their cute blend of old school meets new gen.

Adorably bubbly marketing executive Faishal Azhar who considers himself a storyteller recounts an incident of a British lady who had her bikini and sunglasses stolen by a mischievous long-tailed macaque. He recalls in jest, “We have many curious local inhabitants and neighbours – the Balinese long-tailed monkeys. They are often seen roaming around the resort like it is their palace. In Balinese Hinduism, monkeys are considered sacred as they embody the spirit of Hanuman, who is the monkey god from the Ramayana epic legend who represents strength, devotion, and the connection between humans and nature. Recently, we had a guest who forgot to close her villa door, and a small family of monkeys wandered in, raiding the minibar and her belongings. I ended up having to apologise profusely for the monkeys’ naughty behaviour. Instead of being upset, the guest laughed along and said that she felt it was a reminder that we are all sharing the same earth. For her, it became part of the story of her stay. At Umana, you do not simply just admire nature from afar, you actually live alongside it. Of course, we always remind guests to be careful, but moments like these highlight how Umana embraces both flora and fauna. From the playful monkeys to the abundant bougainvillaea and plentiful frangipani blooms that are so deeply tied to Bali. It is all part of the wild soul of this ancient land that makes the resort special.”

With his handsome face, chiselled jawline, and toned physique, Marketing and Communications Director Arga Brahma looks like someone who trains daily, keeps fit, and takes very good care of himself. Muscular Arga paused to reflect for a moment before sharing his favourite spots at the resort, “One of my favourite hidden corners of the resort is our herb garden which is quietly sustained by compost created from our own kitchen trimmings. Most guests do not realise that the basil in their cocktail or the mint in their tea has been freshly picked just hours before, right here at the resort. For me, it is a small but meaningful reminder that hospitality, sustainability, and wellness can and should go hand-in-hand. This is not something we showcase with fanfare, but it is a quiet, behind-the-scenes daily commitment that we do consistently and constantly. But when guests discover it, they often feel a deeper connection to the land and to the meals they enjoy right here at LXR Umana.”

Umana’s carefully curated spa and wellness program is a practiced balance of old traditional Indonesian therapies and new contemporary wellness modalities. If you come to Umana for healing and recaliberation, you will find that the relaxing environment and tranquil settings conspire to assist you in your process of physical rejuvenation and spiritual revitalisation.

The Lohma spa’s Tri Hitsa Karana inspired offerings and soulful treatments are delivered with a discreet professionalism that aligns with the resort’s overall temperament of luxury without being needlessly ostentatious. As time was of the essence, we decided to tap on Arga’s expertise and experience on what wellness and cultural activities he recommended that we try during our short stay.

Encouraging us to be a little more adventurous, Arga suggested, “I highly recommend the Soul Blessing at Pura Batu Pageh, which is a sacred ritual led by a local priest at the cliffside temple just steps away from the resort. The ceremony combines spirituality and Balinese culture. Many guests describe it as a grounding and transformative moment that becomes the highlight of their stay. Alongside this, I would also suggest joining one of our local tasting journeys, whether it’s coffee, wine or arak. Each is curated with our local partners and artisans, so guests don’t just taste, but they also get taken on immersive journeys to hear the stories behind each product, learning how these flavours are deeply tied to Bali’s rich heritage. It’s a beautiful and environmentally friendly way to celebrate the island’s culture while supporting the local community in a sustainable manner.”

Hidden along the dramatic coastline not far from the LXR Umana, an authentic and intriguing Balinese temple has been carved into the mouth of a seaside bat cave. The air of the bat cave was thick with the plumes of incense and an otherworldly aura that blurred the boundaries between the land and sea as well as the mortal and spiritual realms.

Led by an elderly local Balinese priest and his young apprentice attendants, we were decked up in traditional sarongs and ceremoniously cleansed. The hypnotic chanting of the priest echoed off the cave walls while harmonising with the squeaks from hundreds of hanging bats above. Blessed coconut water was being repeatedly splashed over our foreheads and shoulders in a purification process. The elaborate ritual unfolded with cinematic grace and comprised of multiple sacred offerings of flowers, rice, and coconut. This was not an artificially contrived activity or a typical resort experience, but felt completely raw and ancient, and which left us feeling profoundly humbled and renewed.

Right after the bat cave temple blessing ceremony, we were chauffeured over to the Commune which is being referred to by resort staff as the “central heart of Umana”. The pool side casual dinning venue offers Southeast Asian breakfasts and light midday fare that emphasises local produce and sustainable preparation practices.

At the Commune, the Pad Pool Bar provides for lazy poolside lounging on warm and languid days. This is the cool and happening spot where intermittent culinary events such as weekend live performances, chef’s tables, tasting set menus, and cooking classes are being held.

Having undergone several Balinese cooking classes in the past, I was feeling like a jaded student at the thought of having to undergo yet another. In contrast, my travel companion was eager with anticipation at his virgin Balinese cooking attempt.

I was proven wrong as the Balinese cooking class at Umana unfolded like a refreshed sensory reinterpretation of the Isle of the Gods’ culinary soul. Under the skilful and patient guidance of the youthful and energetic executive sous chef, we were educated about the diverse range of exotic local ingredients from galangal, turmeric, kaffir lime leaves, bird’s eye chili, lemongrass, candlenut, pandan leaves, nutmeg, and more. The young but experienced chef introduced each herb and spice with a descriptive explanation about their specific respective roles in traditional Balinese cooking, as well as sharing new and innovative ways to cook with those familiar ingredients.

We were guided to first prepare Base Genep which is the “mother sauce” of Balinese cuisine. It is the gourmet foundational sauce upon which many local dishes are concocted from. Every chef has their own family recipe for it.

The rhythmic sound of pestles meeting mortar soon filled the air as we pounded, chopped, and ground the ingredients by hand into fragrant aromatic pastes, releasing spice essences that invokes the senses.

Next up, we hand-wrapped marinated minced meat around lemongrass stalks and bamboo sticks to make satay lilit, before skilfully grilling them over smoky open flames. Finally, we sat down for lunch with an exquisite and elegantly crafted Balinese bento lunch that comprised mostly of what we cooked in class as well as the chef’s specials of the day such as handmade bakso soup.

The crowning jewel of the Umana has got to be the hugely popular Oliverra which is situated right at the cliff’s edge with an epic panoramic view of endless blue skies and ocean. Made famous due to Instagram, this Mediterranean seafood fine-dining restaurant deserves a chapter of its very own. As seating capacity at this beautiful lofty restaurant is limited, prior reservation bookings are absolutely mandatory if you even hope to get a table especially during peak dinner time.

Oliverra features an elevated menu with bold flavours that focuses on premium ingredients such as Kiwami Wagyu and fresh seafood that are cooked using a Josper charcoal oven for intense, smoky flavours. Dishes are paired and served alongside curated wines and bespoke cocktails.

The feel of Oliverra can be described as modern trendy decor meets old Mediterranean soul food. We tried the Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio, Garlic Prawns, Seafood Saffron Risotto, Fresh Barramundi, and signature Lobster Fideua with oven-baked pasta paella. Everything from the appetising amuse-bouche of hor d’oeuvres down to the crispy and pillowy pistachio Baklava dessert were bursting with classic notes and novelty textures that we have never experienced anywhere else before.

After dinner, we took the fun (and free) retro-styled shuttle bus down the cliffs over to Uma Beach House to have sunset cocktails and to watch the horizon change colours while people watch and listen to DJs spin funky upbeat tunes.

Uma Beach House is like the younger and much more upbeat sister to Umana’s serene disposition and tranquil maturity. The culinary offerings here are thoughtful yet refreshingly unpretentious. From grilled tiger prawns brushed with lemon-infused olive oil to vibrant rainbow poke bowls layered with the freshest local tuna, the light hearted beach menu at Uma celebrates being zesty and alive while upholding Umana’s high hospitality standards.

In the evenings at golden hour, the beach club transitions from a relaxing seaside haven into a vibrant dream and ambient sound scape. A cool saxophonist beguiles the sexy bikini-clad audience with jazz sets and sleek moves against a backdrop of molten gold sunsets and incandescent candlelit flickers. An absolutely sensory way to end our stay with fond memories to last a lifetime.